The Making of a Pattern By Elizabeth Bishop

Patterns are intended for guidance and inspiration. The selection of a well thought out and well developed pattern can be a true measure of one’s success in the journey with needle and thread.

Have you ever considered what goes into making a pattern? As a technical writer for KWIK SEW Pattern Company, I have a first-hand understanding of the many steps involved in the process of pattern development, and I have a great appreciation for the creative team of people it takes to get a quality product from KWIK SEW, to Bear Patch Quilting and into your hands.

For those of you who are interested, a KWIK SEW pattern starts with a source of inspiration, which can include the latest trends in fabric, fashion, craft, décor, color, climate, seasons, articles, advertisements, television, shopping excursions, and requests from satisfied customers.

All KWIK SEW patterns are developed at KWIK SEW Pattern Company located in Minneapolis, Minnesota. KWIK SEW at present employs 23 men and women, ten of whom work in the design department; three pattern designers, a graphic designer, a technical illustrator, a technical writer, two full time seamstresses, a part time design assistant and a part time artist. I don’t profess to know the full capacity of each person’s job for each wears many hats. However, I do know that four times a year KWIK SEW’s team of designers collaborate ideas and plans for 22 -24 new patterns to be developed over the course of a three month period or quarter.

Once a few designs are decided upon, the process for the new quarter begins. Preliminary patterns are drafted and developed by the designers. The first patterns developed each quarter are for Misses’ size garments, as all Misses’ garment patterns start with a standard base size. Test samples of these garments are then made by the seamstresses. Once made, a live fit model visits the design studio, and each design is examined on her for proper fit. Any changes and necessary adjustments are noted by the designers and a new corrected pattern is printed. This process may be repeated as many times as necessary until the desired outcome is achieved. Often a design may change completely from its original plan. When a final corrected copy of a pattern is made, it is then graded into different sizes.

The pattern next lands on the table of the technical writer (that’s me) who hand measures every seam on each pattern piece, assures that all notches, dots, seams are accurately placed, pattern pieces are numbered, seams and placement lines are named, and the writing process begins. Detailed step by step instructions are written. This process may involve tearing pre sewn samples apart, or sewing additional test samples or portions of a sample to most accurately visualize the best construction method. Once the first copy is complete, it is read and edited by the design director for construction method only.

Once the method is confirmed, fine tuning of the draft is done. It is then placed on the desk of the technical illustrator who draws computer images or line drawings to reflect the written instruction. This is a tedious process and writer and illustrator work side by side to assure the most accurate representation of text and illustration is accomplished. Most often, three or four patterns are being worked on at the same time, passed from writer to illustrator, to design director and so on and so on.

When a pattern is finally approved, it lands on the desk of the graphic artist, who organizes text and illustration into a readable layout. The pattern is then proof-read by the design director. It is then read aloud by the technical writer to the design director, reread privately by the technical writer, and once again by the design director. At this point, final corrections, if any, are made by the illustrator and graphic artist.

The instruction sheets are then given to the three people in press to be made ready for print. And the final text is then added to the pattern pieces by the design assistant. There is a back and forth process of proof reading the pattern pieces as well. Once the pattern pieces are approved, these too are sent to press.

All patterns go through this same process, whether Women’s sizes, crafts, Men’s, Children, or baby items. Each have different sizing and construction criteria. Fabrics are purchased for the finished samples to be used for a photo shoot which takes place about mid quarter. The seamstresses continue to sew. The artist visits the design studio on various days to illustrate, with a color wash, a drawing of each view for each pattern. This wash art is used on the envelope to show the detail of each design.

Sandwiched in between each of these processes, yardage is calculated for completed patterns. Pattern pieces are laid out by hand on a grid, by one of the designers, to determine correct amount of fabric needed, and information for the envelope is compiled. Yardage is then checked in the computer by the designer. The technical illustrator creates a line drawing of the back view of each design. The technical writer lays out the pattern pieces by hand on the grid once again, to check the layout for accuracy, verifies that the information for the envelope is correct, and writes the description of the design for the back of the envelope. All information and all artwork, once approved are passed to the graphic artist to be combined and compiled into an envelope design. The proofing process between design director and technical writer is repeated for all envelope information.

Models are selected to model garments for the quarterly KWIK SEW catalog. Photos for the catalog are taken in a professional photographer’s studio. The catalog contains over 800 pattern designs, and is collated by KWIK SEW’s bindery department, envelopes are printed, pattern pieces and envelopes are folded and patterns and instructions are inserted into the envelopes. Directly before patterns are inserted, patterns are checked for quality control.

KWIK SEW’s office team of five, answer phones, process orders, organize, keep records and computers running (among many, many other duties), and the patterns are then mailed out to you by KWIK SEW’s own shipping department.

So, when you question the cost of a pattern, especially in this difficult economic climate, pause for a moment and consider the number of hands and minds it takes to spare you numerous hours in figuring and calculating, and how many more hours that frees up for you to sew!