Quilting References/Tips

Helpful Measurements from Bear Patch Quilting Co.

Quilt Batt Sizes:


Crib 45" x 60"
Throw 60" x 60"
Twin 72" x 90"
Full 81" x 96"
Queen 90" x 108"
King 120" x 120"

Yardage Equivalents:


1/8 yd. = 4 1/2"
1/4 yd. = 9"
1/3 yd. = 12"
3/8 yd. = 13 1/2"
1/2 yd. = 18"
5/8 yd. = 22 1/2"
2/3 yd. = 24"
3/4 yd. = 27"
7/8 yd. = 31 1/2"
1 yd. = 36"

Quilt Back Yardage:


these are approximate
measurements. Measure your
quilt for true amounts.

Crib - 3 yds. cross-wise Seam
Throw - 3 3/4 yds.
Twin - 4 1/2 yds. cross-wise
Twin - 5 1/2 yds. lengthwise
Full - 5 yds. cross-wise
Full - 5 3/4 yds. lengthwise
Queen - 8 yds. cross-wise
Queen - 9 1/2 yds. lengthwise
King - 10 yds.

Machine Needle Guide

Jeans/Denim
Microtex/Sharp
Topstitch
Quilting
Universal
Metallica/Metafil
Ballpoint 
Stretch 
Wing
Leather
Double/triple 

Serger/overlock
 Piecing & quilting with cotton thread
Piecing & quilting with cotton thread
Stitching with decorative threads
Quilting with cotton threads
General sewing 
Quilting or embroidery with metallics
Knit fabrics
Sewing elastic or synthetic suedes
Hemstitching & decorative effects
Sewing leather & nonwoven synthetics
Decorative stitching Serging all fabrics 		#70/10 or #80/12
#70/10 or #80/12
#80/12
#70/10 or #80/12
#70/10 or #80/12
#90/14
#80/12
#80/12
#80/12 or #90/14
#90/14
variable

variable
Piecing:   Microtex/Sharp#80/12 for most fabrics, #70/10 for tight weave.

batiks Quilting:   Quilting or Microtex #80/12 for cotton thread, #70/10 for monofilament.

Quilting Tips

  • Thread Size is described by weight and the numbers get larger as the thread gets smaller. 40 wt. is useful for quilting, 50 wt. for standard sewing and piecing, and 60 wt. for machine embroidery.

  • Handsewing needle size runs the opposite of machine needles, i.e., smaller number=larger needle. Milliners are the same as straw needles.

  • Half square triangles—add 7/8" to the finished size to get the size of the cut square.

  • Quarter square triangles—add 1 1/4" to the finished size to get the size of the cut square.

  • Laurel always cuts her borders and binding from the straight of the grain. This way, she has perfectly smooth borders and binding because fabric cut length-wise doesn’t stretch like fabric cut cross-wise. You might think this would take a lot more fabric, but it doesn’t. Most often, she can cut her binding out of the border yardage and best of all- no seams in the borders and fewer seams in the binding!

  • Debbie uses a Quilter’s Aid when piecing. Save all those binding scraps you would normally throw away. Cut them into 1” pieces. Start piecing with one of these scraps under your presser foot and always end on one. There is a lot less thread trimming and your machine is always ready for chain piecing and sewing!

  • If you own a Bernina, make sure you use the knee lift. Studies have shown you save 10 minutes of every hour by not having to stop and lift the presser foot with your hand!

  • During a Kaye England seminar this winter, Debbie learned that Kaye doesn’t press any of her quilt blocks until the entire quilt is pieced. It works!

  • Use Omnigrid Glo Line tape on your strip cutting ruler. It just takes a quick glance to know what size strip you are cutting. Nancy also marks her template shape on her ruler after strip cutting to make her secondary cut quick and accurate!